Appetite
Volume 105, 2016, Pages 430-438

The traditional food of migrants: Meat, water, and other challenges for dietary advice. An ethnography in Guanajuato, Mexico (Article)

Smith-Morris C.
  • a SMU Anthropology, 3225 Daniel Boulevard, Dallas, TX 75275, United States

Abstract

The term “traditional diet” is used variously in public health and nutrition literature to refer to a substantial variety of foodways. Yet it is difficult to draw generalities about dietary tradition for specific ethnic groups. Given the strong association between migration and dietary change, it is particularly important that dietary advice for migrants be both accurate and specific. In this article, I examine the cultural construct of “traditional foods” through mixed method research on diet and foodways among rural farmers in Guanajuato, MX and migrants from this community to other Mexican and U.S. destinations. Findings reveal first, that quantitatively salient terms may contain important variation, and second, that some “traditional” dietary items –like “refresco,” “carne,” and “agua” – may be used in nutritionally contradictory ways between clinicians and Mexican immigrant patients. Specifically, the term “traditional food” in nutritional advice for Mexican migrants may be intended to promote consumption of fresh produce or less meat; but it may also invoke other foods (e.g., meats or corn), inspire more regular consumption of formerly rare foods (e.g., meats, flavored waters), or set up financially impossible goals (e.g., leaner meats than can be afforded). Salience studies with ethnographic follow up in target populations can promote the most useful and accurate terms for dietary advice. © 2016 Elsevier Ltd

Author Keywords

Salience Refresco Agua migrant Meat Tradition

Index Keywords

cultural anthropology multicenter study clinical trial fruit vegetable Follow-Up Studies agricultural worker bean human rice taste follow up rural population Zea mays controlled study diet Food clinical practice participant observation water ethnology Mexico maize United States Humans migrant fast food chicken male counseling female Socioeconomic Factors Mexican ethnography socioeconomics Article conversation emotion nutrition adult migration normal human diet therapy traditional food dietary advice pepper Transients and Migrants Anthropology, Cultural food intake beverage soup Drinking Water meat flavor public health

Link
https://www.scopus.com/inward/record.uri?eid=2-s2.0-84975847347&doi=10.1016%2fj.appet.2016.06.001&partnerID=40&md5=d2fd80f28374cf3176229c1a2291fb3e

DOI: 10.1016/j.appet.2016.06.001
ISSN: 01956663
Cited by: 2
Original Language: English